The Ankogel – one Mountain, many Lives, What Remains?

Tourenbuch von Rudi Hohenberger

It was a discovery that made me pause: The first page from August 15, 1957 in the tour book, slightly yellowed, in the handwriting of a twelve-year-old – my twelve-year-old father.

I had always skipped over this exact entry on the first page until now – twelve years old, every summer at the Hannoverhaus, marking trails with his father, my grandfather. Under the care of his mother, my grandmother, hut keeper at the Hannoverhaus. A childhood in the mountains that later shaped mine as well.

And what could I read there:

Unser Hausberg der Ankogel - ein Eintrag von meinem Jungen Vater mit Weitblick

My place in the mountains

The story begins in the mountaineering village of Mallnitz, the small high-altitude health resort in the Hohe Tauern National Park, which is somehow just a point on the map – but for me, it’s home, heritage, and the heart of my family biography. My grandparents came to Mallnitz about 85 years ago, a popular tourist destination, also due to its development through the Tauern Railway. They started as hut keepers at the Hannoverhaus, a base camp for those wanting to climb the Ankogel – also known as the cradle of alpinism.

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The Ankogel – at 3,252 meters, the eponymous mountain of the Ankogel Group – is thus more than just a peak. It is a silent chronicler of those people who have visited, conquered, or simply marveled at it over the decades. Those who ascend from Mallnitz with the Ankogelbahn feel the change with their first step on the mountain: from everyday life to the extraordinary, from noise to clarity.

The tour to the Ankogel is no walk in the park

ALPIN – The Mountain Magazine has prepared this high-altitude tour with climbing (I+) for us. In my father’s stories, which included wind and weather as well as the hardships and dangers of the ascent, there was always a lesson. That’s how they are, the summits, rewarding goals and at the same time character-building.

Traces that remain

Ankogel Gipfelkreuz

Today, decades later, I encounter the young generation of hikers, mountaineers with high-tech equipment, children with shining eyes on the over 150 km of hiking trails in and around Mallnitz. They are the mountain enthusiasts of today – digital, freedom-loving, freedom-seeking. And yet the experience remains the same: the contact with nature, the view into the valley, the slow realization that the essential is never loud.

For all those who set out – whether for the first time or on a search for traces – the mountains are silent teachers. They demand nothing but reverence – and give back what we often seek: perspective and orientation.

From the Hannoverhaus to the present

Tourism has changed, yes. But Mallnitz has remained true to itself. As an ÖAV-Mountaineering Village, it focuses on gentle development instead of mass experiences. On quality instead of speed. And also on hosts who know what a true mountain moment means – because they have experienced it themselves.

When I welcome guests today, I tell many stories that my father has already told. They are still true. That remains.

MISSION 3000 to the Ankogel

For all those who want to benefit from the comprehensive knowledge and experience of a mountain guide and want to climb the Ankogel, Klaus Alber (+43 676 526 4717) tauernclimb.com offers in cooperation with Alpine Pearls a summit tour to the great Ankogel. Price advantage for guests of an Alpine Pearls
member establishment.

Mission 3000 Gipfeltour Ankogel
Mission 3000 Gipfeltour auf den Ankogel Info

Trail Maintenance by the Alpine Club Mallnitz

On Sunday, May 18, 2025, Günther Schwärzler, the trail warden of the Alpine Club Mallnitz, was active on hiking trail 139 to the peak of Lonzaköpfl with Marielle of AlpineKraft, who also created the Instagram video, and Florian of Apartments Hohenberger.

Sawing, sweeping, digging channels – a small contribution to the trail infrastructure – in and around the mountaineering village Mallnitz there are more than 150 km of hiking trails for all skill levels.

The video immediately shows how much team spirit and enthusiasm is involved in trail work – and how motivating it is to have accomplished something together.

We covered about 1,000 meters in altitude up to just below the Lonzaköpfl and were busy all of Sunday. We were additionally rewarded with good weather and great views.

Weg 139 des Alpenverein Mallnitz vom Tal zum Lonzaköpfl

The high valley of Mallnitz, open to the south, is surrounded by 7 three-thousand-meter peaks and over 20 summits just under the three-thousand-meter mark. Very early on, hikers and mountaineers from Alpine Club sections of predominantly from northern Germany were drawn to the beautiful mountain world around Mallnitz – follow in their footsteps.

Apartments Hohenberger offers hikers and mountaineers a quiet, well-equipped base in the village of Mallnitz in the Hohe Tauern National Park with their studios and apartments.

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What Our Guests Have to Say

Included for Our Guests

Through the partnerships with the Hohe Tauern National Park, the Mountaineering Villages of the ÖAV and Alpine Pearls, we can offer all guests in our house in Summer 2025 a wide range of inclusive services:

  • Parking at the house or a free arrival and departure shuttle from Mallnitz-Obervellach train station
  • Hiking buses and on-call hiking taxi and mobility with mountain bikes
  • 1x admission to the BIOS National Park Visitor’s Center and the Haus der Steinböcke
  • Ranger tours of the Hohe Tauern National Park
  • Alpine herb hiking
  • Electric vehicle rental

The Ankogel mountain is considered by many to be the cradle of alpinism

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Preparing Trails for the Summer

On May 3, 2025, I had the opportunity to accompany Günther Schwärzler for the first time during trail maintenance. The trail manager of the Alpine Club Mallnitz is an expert on the trails, nature, and history of Mallnitz – an interesting conversation partner.

The well-maintained hiking trails that we and our guests use are the result of continuous work. Without regular inspection, repair, and marking, many routes would quickly become overgrown, dangerous, or simply impassable.

The trail network in and around Mallnitz offers hikers and mountaineers around 150 km of hiking trails at three different altitude levels. This is why Mallnitz remains an interesting holiday destination for all skill levels over the years.

Start at 09:00 at the BIOS National Park Center Mallnitz

In high spirits and equipped with good footwear, snacks, and various tools, we meet at the BIOS National Park Center in Mallnitz and march towards the start of Trail 139 in the center of Mallnitz. Our work begins at the Margarethen Pavilion access point, and we plan to reach “Lempaleboden” today. Trail 139 is one of the paths that leads to Häusleralm, Lonzaköpfl, and many other tours:

The Alpine Club Trail 139 (Carinthia)

Along the way, there are countless impressions and quiet spots. In the trail database of Mallnitz, you can inform yourself about the condition of the trail.

Trail maintenance is a silent guarantee for safety, orientation, and quality in alpine areas. It not only protects hikers from accidents but also the sensitive nature – because clearly defined paths prevent visitors from unknowingly straying into sensitive areas or causing trampling damage.

Weg 139 beim Hengstenbergweg
The forecasted rain finally caught up with us. Satisfied with our day's work, we're back in the valley after ~8h.

Now a part of the Alpine Club trail is restored – I’m looking forward to being on the road with Günther next time.

What many don’t know: In regions like Mallnitz, this work is largely done voluntarily by the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV), the sections of the German Alpine Club (DAV), the Municipality of Mallnitz, and the Hohe Tauern National Park – an effort that happens in the background but is indispensable for the hiking experience.

Günther is always looking for helpers – contact him, it’s meaningful work and an experience at the same time.

Video tip - makes you want to go hiking

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Peter Angermann, former managing director of OeAV Kärnten, describes the diverse trail network (~150 km) in and around the mountaineering village Mallnitz.

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In the realm of the Tauern Queen – The Hochalmspitze

Unfortunately offline – scroll down for another documentary on the Hochalmspitze – it is globally available until June 2, 2025.

The new production “Land der Berge” – “Im Reich der Tauernkönigin” focuses on the Hochalmspitze in Carinthia over the seasons. The special history of this region, its people, the history of alpinism and the unique flora and fauna are also highlighted.

A very exciting documentary

Screenshot von ARDalpha
Click on the picture to watch the production "Im Reich der Tauernkönigin - Die Hochalmspitze" online at ARDalpha until March 30, 2025.

In the realm of the Tauern Queen - The timeless wilderness

The Hochalmspitze is considered by many to be the most architecturally beautiful mountain in Carinthia. At 3,360m, it is the highest mountain in the Ankogel group in the Hohe Tauern. A documentary by Leopold Fuchs
43:58 watch now

Globally available until: June 2, 2025